Everything you need to know about visiting Ethiopia

“it’s you, a roll of toilet paper, and a dream.”

— me

I recently visited the stunning country known as Ethiopia and it honestly changed my life and blew my mind on so many levels.

Ethiopia is a country that never fails to amaze with its rich history, stunning landscapes, and diverse culture. From the bustling streets of Addis Ababa to the ancient rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, there is something for everyone in this fascinating country. So let’s dive in and explore some of the highlights of Ethiopia, including Addis Ababa, Gondar, The Simien Mountains, Lalibela, and the Danakil Depression.

FIRST some background

The main religion is Orthodox Christianity (2/3 of the population) and the other major religion is Islam (1/3 of the population)
The currency is the Ethiopian Birr — 1 USD = 54.45 Birr (a meal will cost you about 300-500 Birr)
Most Ethiopian Christians fast from animal products every Wednesday and Friday so if you’re vegan or vegetarian you will have ZERO trouble finding delicious food (order the fasting menu at any restaurant)
Ethiopia follows a calendar with 13 months meaning in Ethiopia you’re about 7-8 years younger (it’s currently 2015 there)
Ethiopians follow their own time — they believe that the clock should start when the day does (at sunrise) meaning that sunrise = 1 o’clock and sunset = 12 o’clock
Ethiopia is the ONLY African country that was NEVER under colonial control and the people are REALLY proud of it (rightfully so)
Apparently you can thank Ethiopian goats for discovering coffee — you can read the whole legend here

Addis Ababa

Start your journey in Addis Ababa (one of the highest elevation capital cities in the world at 2,355 meters (7,726 ft) — it has one of the largest international airport hubs in all of Africa and is the perfect place to start your Ethiopian adventure.

Hot Tip — if you fly into and out of Ethiopia from your respective home bases on Ethiopian Airlines, you will get discounted fares on all domestic flights you take within Ethiopia (and you will take a lot) so it’s VERY worth it.

As the capital city of Ethiopia, Addis Ababa is a vibrant and bustling metropolis that offers visitors a unique blend of ancient traditions and modern developments. One of the most popular attractions in Addis Ababa is the National Museum of Ethiopia, which houses a collection of artifacts and exhibits that showcase the country's rich history and culture. Visitors can see the famous Lucy skeleton, a 3.2 million-year-old fossil, and other ancient artifacts.

Another must-see attraction in Addis Ababa is the Ethiopian Ethnological Museum, which is housed in the former palace of Emperor Haile Selassie. This museum gives visitors a glimpse into the country's diverse ethnic groups and their customs and traditions.

For a breathtaking view of the entire city, I recommend checking out Entoto Park — spend some time walking around the grounds and enjoying the nature and snap a picture at their big “E T H I O P I A” sign!

For those who love to shop, the Merkato (Mercato) is the largest open-air market in Africa and offers a wide range of goods, including traditional clothing, jewelry, spices, and souvenirs.

If you’re a coffee lover (like myself) then you’ve come to the right place! Ethiopia is known for its richly flavored coffee and even richer coffee culture. My local Ethiopian friend told me that not having the proper coffee-making technique can disqualify a woman from marriage… WILD, I know.

If you’re looking for the best, and oldest coffee shop in all of Addis Ababa, I recommend Tomoca Coffee — I ordered a macchiato and it was lifechanging

I also highly recommend starting one of your mornings in Addis Ababa with a traditional coffee ceremony experience — The coffee ceremony is considered to be the most important social occasion in many villages, and it is a sign of respect and friendship to be invited to a coffee ceremony

You can book with Go Addis Tours — if you do a full-day tour with them you’ll see all the highlights of Addis Ababa and sample amazing local cuisine.

Where to stay in Addis

If you’re looking for convenient proximity to the international airport as well as the rest of the bustling city, I recommend The Hub Hotel — the rooms are SUPER comfortable and the included breakfast is honestly amazing. The whole place is really well kept and the staff is super helpful and accommodating.

For a luxury stay, I would recommend The Sheraton Addis

Gondar

Located in the northern part of Ethiopia, Gondar was once the capital of the Ethiopian Empire and is known for its stunning 17th-century castles and palaces. The Royal Enclosure, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the most famous attraction in Gondar and includes several palaces, churches, and other buildings that were once part of the royal compound.

Other notable attractions in Gondar include the Fasil Ghebbi, a fortress built in the 17th century, and the Debre Berhan Selassie Church, which is famous for its beautiful murals and paintings — walking inside this church feels like walking into another world filled with biblical stories and intricate works of art.

*Inside the Debre Berhan Selassie Church*

Gondar also happens to be the gateway to the Simien Mountains — a stunning mountain range located northeast of Gondar in the Amhara region. You can spend days hiking and exploring these magnificent mountains and camping in the high altitude wonderland

*View of the Simien Mountain Range from my tent*

Due to the civil unrest in Ethiopia, specifically in the Tigray region, these areas in Amhara have been virtually inaccessible for the last two years, however since a peace treaty was signed in November of 2022, these regions have reopened. Make sure you have a very knowledgeable guide to take you through these areas, as they will know where it is safe to go.

AND if you don’t camp out in the mountains, you are severely missing out!

Where to stay in Gondar

Camping in the Simien Mountains is a MUST — I recommend going with New Ethiopia Tours (ask for Bre, he’s the BEST)

Hot Tip — keep in mind that it gets VERY cold up in the mountains around 7°C/45°F and with the wind, it feels much colder. I recommend packing lots of layers and bringing a cold-weather sleeping bag so you don’t freeze to death at night.

Lalibela

Lalibela is home to one of the most impressive collections of rock-hewn churches in the world. These ancient churches were carved out of solid rock in the 12th century and are still used for religious services today. The most famous of these churches is the Church of St. George, which is carved in the shape of a cross and is considered to be one of the architectural wonders of the world. Take it from me, it’s freaking AMAZING up close.

You can also explore the other 10 rock-hewn churches in Lalibela, which are all interconnected by tunnels and passageways. Each church has its own unique architecture and design, and you can spend hours wandering around and through these incredible structures.

One of the cultural highlights of my trip was participating in a traditional Ethiopian Orthodox Church service at Lalibela. The whole experience was extremely moving and spiritual, no matter what religion you practice, there’s something really magical about witnessing something so rooted in history and tradition.

*Parishioners worshipping during a church service at Lalibela*

Where to stay in Lalibela

I HIGHLY recommend Sora Lodge — the rooms are comfortable and clean, the onsite restaurant has great, locally sourced food, and the breakfast is really yummy!

It’s only about a 5-minute drive from the Lalibela Churches so the location can’t be beat!

The Danakil Depression

The loooooooong drive into the Danakil Depression region begins from the tiny regional airport in Mek’ele (the capital of the Tigray region) — this will be your last taste of civilization for a WHILE so stock up on whatever you need here.

From here, you will spend MANY hours in a 4x4 driving through a vast, uninhabited desert landscape (truly there is nothing for miles) I HIGHLY recommend making sure your car has functioning air conditioning as temperatures inside the vehicle can become unbearable and you may not be able to keep windows rolled down as there are very few roads and you’ll be driving over sand and dirt (I can taste the dust just thinking about it)

A little background — The Danakil Depression is one of the most unique and otherworldly landscapes in the world. Located in the northeastern part of Ethiopia, this area is known for its active volcanoes, salt flats, and colorful hot springs. The temperatures in the Danakil Depression can reach up to 50°C (122°F), making it one of the hottest places on Earth.

*Exploring the volcanic landscape and acid pools of Dallol*

Visiting this region can be physically demanding, but it is well worth it for the stunning views and unique experiences that the Danakil Depression offers. If you do visit just know you will be spending long hours in direct sunlight, in extremely high temperatures so it is important that you bring enough water, sunscreen, hats, breezy clothing, etc.

After spending a night or two camping under the stars near Dallol and the salt flats, we hopped back in our 4x4s and headed to the next brain chemistry altering destination — Erta Ale Volcano

Erta Ale Volcano is cool for so many reasons — It is part of an elite and exclusive group of continuously active volcanoes AND it has a lava lake which is SUPER rare

We arrived at our next campsite as the sun was setting

The cool thing about this region is that the weather is so dry and the temperature is so mild that you can literally sleep right out in the open comfortably — there are virtually no bugs, and with a light breeze you’ll sleep like a baby

After a lovely dinner at camp, we ventured up the volcano after dark — the hike is challenging, the terrain is a bit unstable and rocky and you’re doing it in complete darkness BUT it is absolutely worth it when you finally reach the top and see the glowing light radiating from the volcanic crater

Witnessing an active volcano this close is something I will NEVER forget, and if you get the chance to visit Ethiopia, the trek out to this remote region is 100% worth it

Where to stay in the Danakil Depression

Fair warning, there are no actual accommodations in this region. It’s just you and your little mattress pad, and the star-filled sky, and the great outdoors.

I highly recommend going with New Ethiopia Tours, ask for Bre or you can find him on Instagram @breme_3 — He knows everything about Ethiopia and you will have the BEST time!

Fair warning AGAIN, there is nothing out there, you will be roughing it (really) there are no bathrooms, no running water, no showers, no shelter (not even a tent) — it’s you, a roll of toilet paper, and a dream.

Last Words

It's important when traveling through Ethiopia to be mindful of cultural sensitivities. Dress modestly and respectfully, especially when visiting religious sites. This is a deeply religious country, and the people take that very seriously, so even if it’s not your belief of choice, find ways to respect it and maybe even participate for nothing more than the experience. Ask your guide when you are traveling into areas that are predominantly Muslim as the style of dress, and what is considered respectable clothing may change.

This is a country that has seen intense civil conflict over the past few years, so be mindful that many of the people in the most conflict-heavy regions may be struggling on levels that most of us can’t even comprehend. Always approach these situations with kindness and sensitivity (we never know what people have been through)

Ethiopia may not be the number one destination on your travel list, but honestly, IT SHOULD BE. From the stunning landscapes of the Simien Mountains to the ancient churches of Lalibela and the otherworldly landscape of the Danakil Depression, there is something for everyone in this fascinating country. You will constantly find yourself taken by surprise at the natural beauty of the entire country, whether it’s the high mountain landscapes or the stunning salt flats and volcanic formations, or the vibrant bustling cities. I feel grateful to have had the opportunity to explore, meet the most amazing people, hear the most inspiring stories, and immerse myself in a truly unique culture.

So what are you waiting for? Book that ticket!

Everything you need to know about visiting Ethiopia

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